The Grand Canyon is the world's largest chameleon, changing color minute-by-minute throughout the day. My favorite times are twilight, when the sun is just below the horizon, when colors are most intense and the forms of the earth are modeled softly, shadowlessly.

It is at times like this that the canyon is most mysterious. The sheer grandeur seen throughout the daylight hours is supplanted by rich, subtle hues. The air is calm and clear, the canyon seems somehow smaller, and the stillness is broken only by the chatter of violet-green swallows and the "cronk" of ravens. It is then that one can feel most "at one" with the canyon.